It's not so much that it's lubed but more like completely filled giving no space for water or dirt that would lead to rust and a worn out tie rod. You can pump grease in the top till it comes out the boot at the bottom. Strike the steering knuckle near the ball joint with a large hammer until the ball joint’s stud pops out. Keep in mind, however, that if you use a pickle fork, the ball joint boot will get ruined in the process, so you should not use this approach if you plan on re-using the ball joint. 4)5)youll need to disconnect the tie rod from the hub via removing the cotter pin and castle nut and the giving the tie rod a good wack on the side it should then come. New OEM Front LH Control Arm Bushing 1994-1998 Mazda MX-3 Protege BC1F-34-46Y (Fits: Mazda Protege) 25. Using a pickle fork and a hammer is also an option. Whether your replacing the outer tie rod or just the axle or lower control arm. Replace it if not within the specification. 3)Remove the rotor you may have to give it a good wack in the center but it should come off. I personally like the Moog because they're greasable. (2) Connect the SST to the ball stud, and measure the rotation torque using a pull scale. The grease always oozes out somewhere but the boot is packed and I just wipe off the excess. I've got a grease needle that plugs onto my grease gun and I poke through the grease boots all over my car and inject them with grease. If there is no play in the joint, it's probably still OK. Just because the tie rod end boot lost some grease, doesn't mean the tie rod is bad. If the new tie rod doesn't come with the nut then don't use it to pound on. It doesn't matter if you crunch the threads because you're not reusing your old tie rod. You can remove the nut then flip it over and thread it back on till it's flush with the stud then pound the hell out of it. Key Features: Direct Bolt-on Replacement: No modifications for. The biggest problem you're probably going to have is getting the tie rod out of the steering knuckle. Front Suspension Control Arm and Ball Joint Kit for Mazda Protege Protege5 FWD KTR-101362. Welcome visitor you can login or create an account. Aftermarket control arms for Mazda Protege 7. i believe the torque spec for the castle nut is about 53 foot pounds. Lower control arm assembly Mazda Protege 6. some people mark theirs, some people count the turns it takes to take off, so whatever works for you. try to install the new tie rod in the same position as your old one since it's responsible for your toe alignment. Installation is the exact reverse with no surprises. Or you could use something like this which won't destroy the boot if that's a concern for you: i use a pickle fork which is fine for bad tie rods since this tool tends to rip up the boot anyway: it will most likely be stuck on there pretty good. so what you would do is undo the jam nut at the end of the tie rod, cut/take off the cotter pin on the other end of the tie rod by the ball joint, take off the castle nut, then you'll have to separate the tie rod from the knuckle. Yeah that's the correct part to buy two of.
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